Wednesday 20 October Amber and Jaigarh

Our car picked us up at 9am, the drive took us through the living areas of different castes the Muslim areas seemed better cared for, while the Hindu area was very busy, another area was much poorer looking with many animals mainly pigs of all sizes rooting in the drains, cows and goats some tied to doorways, we drove past a temple where the wall outside was covered in dried cow pats which were being sold for cooking fires.


We were going to Amber Palace Fort, which is situated high among rugged hills with a lake down below, we couldn't wait to get up there. Around the garden and lake there were lovely Langur monkeys obviously unafraid and friendly, for the fainthearted mahouts wait with their beautifully painted elephants who carry seats for two people to be transported to the top. We were happy to walk up although it was very hot, we kept stopping for water and to gaze at the views as we got higher.



Construction took over two centuries and was begun in 1592, it is built in red sandstone with much white marble inside, many of the appartments were built in a very interesting way each for a particular season, these men were amazing with their knowledge and the way in which they used it as we were discovering on our grand tour.



When we got to the ticket office we decided to hire a guide, an elderly gentleman who was most informative about past and present. Another huge and quite magnificent place with numerous separate palaces and appartments for the males and females. Most of this place is well preserved, rooms have mirrored panels, mosaics, carved marble columns and the marble is oh so cool to sit on. The Hall of Pleasure has a channel running down the middle that used to carry cooled water through the rooms, there are hooks in the ceilings of side rooms where carpets were hung to keep rooms warm, there are galleries with lattice work screens for the ladies of the court to observe through but not be seen.

Within this edifice is the Shila Mata Temple - the temple of the patron Goddess of Jaipur - (Kali). A gorgeous white marble temple with huge beautifully carved silver doors, the goddess is carved in black marble. Devotees pass through in a continuous stream and it was apparently ok for me to join in after removing my shoes, they stand in front of the goddess, ring a bell then have water poured into their hands which they put to their mouths and presumably drink before running the rest over their face and heads, I stood to one side and afterwards thought that I could have done this without drinking! I rejoined John and our guide and carried on to the end of this part of the tour, then we stood to look over to the hills and down to the ruins of old Amber with its chatris and temples and would have loved to have time to visit.


Our driver took us next to Jaigarh Fort, a short distance away towering upon the steep hills above Amber. The narrow road wound round and round up to this imposing fort, which was never captured and it is pretty obvious why when you arrive. It is in an amazing position with valleys stretching around and away from it - such fantastic views.

This was built by SawaiJai Singh in 1726 and boasts the worlds largest wheeled cannon, it was built as an arsenal. A 5km long canal enters the fort from the hills, and there is a vast water tank in the centre now full of dank green water and surrounded by scrubby bushes, we were told that this water supply and storage was a planning marvel, and were informed too that there are wild animals in the hills including leopards, I wonder if they can come here to drink.

This place is not beautiful but is magnificent, we saw two or three temples, a museum, armoury, foundry, granary and small exhibitions. We wandered through a maze of stone rooms and at one point came across a puppet show going on, it was very amusing. We kept walking to different points just to enjoy the atmosphere, peace and stunning scenery. We finished up at the cafeteria, where we were given some information to read together with old newspaper cuttings - the previous Maharajah gave this place to his former chief chef - and the food was excellent, we had the best ever gulab jamun of all time.

When we got back to the car the driver had a bit of a sulk as presumably he had plans for our lunch with some commission. We stopped on our way back to take photos of the red sandstone Jal Mahal palace on Man Sagar Lake, built in about 1799 as a pleasure palace by the royals. It is now abandoned and the lower floors are under water. I imagine it will just fall to pieces in the future but is at present a lovely sight.

Back at the hotel we enjoyed chai on the terrace. Later being too tired to go far we returned to the Moti Mahal for an excellent dinner, and chatted to a couple of young backpackers from Belfast having just arrived from Goa. Can't wait for tomorrow to see more of the wonderful sights around this city.